Ingredient Spotlight: Retinol and Its Related Derivatives

Each of the ingredients in our luxurious and highly effective formulations is meticulously sourced and carefully selected for its supreme benefits. One of the exceptional, powerhouse ingredients that we use in several of our celebrated moisturizers that is often misunderstood is Vitamin A. In our formulations, we use a form of it called Retinyl Palmitate. 

What is Retinyl Palmitate?

Retinyl palmitate is a retinoid and derivative of Vitamin A. It is a known anti-inflammatory ingredient and is also a potent antioxidant that converts to Retinol when absorbed by the skin. This tried-and-true ingredient promotes skin-cell turnover and refines skin texture.

Retinyl palmitate can be absorbed into the skin. Studies indicate that absorbed retinyl palmitate is readily hydrolyzed to retinol by cutaneous esterases. In addition, skin contains the enzymes required for further metabolism of retinol to retinaldehyde and retinoic acid, and some studies have shown that levels of retinoic acid in the skin can increase following topical application of retinyl palmitate or retinol.

What is the difference between Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate?

Retinol is a chemical substance that is also known as vitamin A. Retinyl palmitate is a chemical substance that is called vitamin A palmitate.

The term retinoid refers to a group of compounds that derive from vitamin A. This means that they possess structural or functional similarities to vitamin A. Retinoids can be natural or synthetic and include many types and forms, such as retinol, retinal, and retinyl esters.

Retinyl Palmitate is a derivative of Vitamin A that is more stable than Retinol.  Retinyl Palmitate is known to be the gentler of the two and is therefore usually a better option for more sensitive skin types and tends to be more easily tolerated. This gentler retinoid is known to result in similar benefits to retinol but may take a bit more time to show its effect due to its milder nature.

What is the difference between a prescription and cosmetic retinol?

Retinoids are a common active ingredient in many dermatological medications and cosmeceuticals due to their positive effects on the skin and its appearance.

People can buy weaker forms of retinoids OTC to help treat mild acne or reduce the signs of aging, such as the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Stronger forms are only available through a doctor’s prescription and typically treat more severe skin conditions, such as psoriasis and cystic acne.

While some may see anti-aging results potentially more quickly with prescription-strength retinols/retinoids such as Retin-A, Tretinoin, or Tazorac, these topical medications can also be potentially irritating. They are more commonly the cause of the dryness and redness many associate with vitamin A-derived products, whereas an over-the-counter retinol, since it is less strong, is generally less irritating, but may take longer to see the desired effect. Sun protection should always be used with these products, including a broad-spectrum SPF of 30+ and other sun-protection measures such as wearing a hat and sunglasses during daylight hours. (See our sunscreen suggestions here.) 

Retinal generally refers to Retinaldehyde and is considered stronger than retinol.

Why use a retinoid (or other vitamin A-derived containing product)?

Retinoids have been proven to be one of the most effective ingredients currently available in improving the appearance of aging skin with its ability to boost collagen, minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin texture. It is for these reasons that many experts in the beauty industry recommend the use of retinoids.

Retinoids have wide use in cosmetics and dermatological treatments. The most common use is to treat mild to moderate acne. By unclogging pores, retinoids allow topical antibiotics to get inside the pores. These two actions can help eliminate acne-causing bacteria.

The benefits of increasing procollagen production and reducing inflammation can help reduce wrinkles and other signs of premature aging, including that due to sun damage.

Usage

Many experts recommend gradually phasing in the use of retinoid products over a few weeks due to their strength, or use of them only a few times a week instead of daily. We also do not recommend using them on sunburnt, chapped, open or wounded skin without a doctor’s specific advisement. 

Because they can be strong, performing a patch test with them before use on the face is highly encourages. See patch test info here.

Cautions:

While there are many other medical uses of Vitamin A, both internally and externally, one should always consult a physician before use if pregnant or under a doctor’s care for any medical conditions. Some Retinoid products can have strong effects on the skin and therefore should not be used together, in multiples or layered without a physician’s approval and guidance as well.

Vitamin A products can make you more sun-sensitive, so it is advisable to utilize them in conjunction with broad-spectrum daily sunscreen use of SPF 30+. UV rays can decrease the efficacy of topically applied retinoid products, so they are also more effective when applied in the evening.